Surf legend Gerry Lopez spoke last night at UC Santa Barbara to promote his new book Surf Is Where You Find It.
During his hour-long sermon of surfing lore, Lopez talked about what surfing and the ocean have given to him, as well as how he allowed surfing to shape his life. Lopez was warmly accepted by the crowd of surfing colleagues and fans, eager to hear about his life and his reasons for writing the book. “[My] motivation was to get the stories down on paper before I forgot them,” Lopez said.
Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard and cool-guy Dan Malloy were also in the audience. Both think Gerry is amazing. “I got chills six times,” Dan told the Daily Nexus reporter. We know the feeling.
[Link: The Daily Nexus]
