Ever wanted to ask former Surfer Magazine editor and Encyclopedia of Surfing author and “biggest surf nerd on the planet” Matt Warshaw a question?
Now’s your chance. He’s on Reddit/r/Surfing and he’s said, “As Me Anything. . .” So far people wanted to know about Andy Irons, gender balance in the ASP, filmmaker John Milius and the “gnarliest situation” he’s ever been in. Warshaw’s answer?
I surfed Mavs three times, and was so fear-sick that I almost cried with relief once I got back to the beach. But I also remember a couple of gnarly moments as a kid, just getting in way over my head on days that I shouldn’t have been in the water. I got rescued a bunch of times, by lifeguards and other surfers, and each time I thought I was going to drown. I’d go home and cower for a day or two, then come back and try again.
For the rest of the AMA, click the link.
[Link: Reddit Surfing]